Marseille - bébe

"Cette expression veut dire à mon sens, la bonne humeur, la convivialité, le goût méditerranéen, l'accent, la familiarité ou tout simplement le sud. C'est une histoire réfléchie, originale et joyeuse qui me rappelle donc la bonne humeur."

Summer in Marseille is a prime time for marine fishermen, as the Mediterranean teems with life under the warm summer sun. The sea, a brilliant shade of turquoise, stretches endlessly beyond the Calanques , where golden rays of sunlight dance on the water's surface.

Fishermen set out at dawn, their boats cutting through the calm, glassy sea, heading toward the best fishing spots near the Frioul Islands or the deeper waters off the Calanques till Toulon. The catch of the day often includes dorade, sea bass, red mullet, calemares and even bluefin tuna—prized among local fishers. Traditional fishing techniques, passed down through generations, are still in use, blending the heritage of Marseille’s maritime past with modern methods.

Back in the Vieux-Port, the morning market comes alive with the scent of fresh fish, where golden-hued stalls are filled with the bounty of the Mediterranean. Locals and chefs from across the city gather to select the freshest seafood, ensuring Marseille’s renowned dishes—like the famous bouillabaisse—retain their rich, authentic flavors.

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My favorite place to paint is near the small port of Madrague, a historic sardine fishing site. It’s still less touristy than other spots and retains its authentic charm.


The vibrant life of the old port, once a Phoenician city, is fascinating—the sounds of boats gently rocking, the vivid colors of the sea and sky, the salty breeze mixed with the scent of fresh catch, and the lively atmosphere create an irresistible allure.

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Panoramic view of the port of Madrague of Montredon
, 2025, 150cm x 50cm, Oil on cotton-linen canvas
Vue panoramique sur le port de la madrague de Montredon, 2025, 150cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de coton-lin

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The coziest place I know is the small port of Madrague, where I recognize every boat, every face, and even every cat. Spending time in one spot, you naturally become part of the place itself. My hours painting in this charming port eventually inspired the church’s fronton fresco, where each boat depicted is instantly recognizable to those who know the harbor as intimately as I do. The sounds of lapping waves, the salty air, and the timeless rhythms of daily life make this port a world of its own—a place where past and present blend seamlessly. All these characteristics have soaked into my canvases, capturing the essence of this enchanting corner of the world.

 

Removing the trawling nets from the boat
2025, oil on board, 30cm x 20cm
Retrait des chaluts du bateau
2025, huile sur panneau, 30cm x 20cm

 

The fish market
2024, oil on canvas, 40cm x 50cm
Le marché aux poissons
2024, huile sur toile, 40cm x 50cm

Un marché emblématique à Marseille, autrefois appelé la Criée, le marché aux poissons du Vieux-Port de Marseille est un petit marché situé sur le quai de la Fraternité – anciennement le quai des Belges – qui accueille une dizaine de stands tous les matins de 8h à 13h

A iconic market in Marseille, once known as "La Criée," the fish market at the Vieux-Port is a small, lively gathering located on the Quai de la Fraternité—formerly Quai des Belges. Every morning, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., a dozen stalls welcome visitors, offering a glimpse into the city’s maritime heritage.


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Waiting till the mistral calms
2024, oil on board, 30cm x 40cm

En attendant que le mistral se calme
2024, huile sur panneau, 30cm x 40cm


The boats moored at the port during the mistral seem to huddle together. The usually calm harbor transforms into a scene of quiet resilience, with ropes straining and the salty air thick with the power of the mistral’s breath.

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Turquoise Mistral of Marseille
2024, oil on canvas, 30cm x 40 cm

Mistral Turquoise de Marseille
2024, oil on canvas, 30cm x 40 cm
 
Les bateaux amarrés au port par temps de mistral semblent se serrer les uns contre les autres. Le port habituellement calme se transforme en une scène de résilience tranquille, avec des cordages tendus et l'air salé chargé de la puissance du souffle du mistral.

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Passage des Croisettes, 2024, 30cm x 90cm, Oil on cotton canvas
Passage des Croisettes, 2024, 30cm x 90cm, Huile sur toile coton


The Île Maïre, with its rugged silhouette, stands guard over the sea, accompanied by its solitary companion: the Île Tiboulen de Maïre. This small islet, almost as high as it is wide, rises 49 meters above the waves, crowned by a steadfast lighthouse. For me, it feels like stepping into a Greek myth—an echo of Calypso’s island. Majestic, captivating, and perilous, it is a place where nothing grows, where the wind carries ancient stories across the rocks. The Passage des Coisettes, a narrow turquoise corridor carved by the sea, adds to the island’s mystique. Here, the waves whisper of old voyages, the air thick with salt and mystery. It is a timeless world, where nature reigns supreme, and the spirit of myth lingers in every gust of the mistral.

L’île Maïre, à la silhouette escarpée, veille sur la mer, accompagnée de sa compagne solitaire : l’île Tiboulen de Maïre. Ce petit îlot, presque aussi haut que large, s’élève à 49 mètres au-dessus des flots, couronné par un phare immuable. J’ai l’impression d’entrer dans un mythe grec, un écho à l’île de Calypso. Majestueuse, captivante et périlleuse, c’est un lieu où rien ne pousse, où le vent porte d’anciennes histoires sur les rochers. Le passage des Coisettes, étroit couloir turquoise creusé par la mer, ajoute à la mystique de l’île. Ici, les vagues murmurent les anciens voyages, l’air est lourd de sel et de mystère. C’est un monde hors du temps, où la nature règne en maître, et où l’esprit du mythe s’attarde dans chaque rafale de mistral.

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Fisherman's wife, 2024, 60cm x 60cm, Oil on recycled cotton-linen canvas
Femme de pêcheur, 2024, 60cm x 60cm, Huile sur toile coton-lin recyclé

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Silence of the boats
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Oil on linen canvas

Silence des bateaux
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de lin

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After the sunset 
2024, 60x65 cm, dry pastel on paper 

Après le coucher du soleil
2024, 60x65 cm, Pastel  sec sur papier

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After fishing. At 6 pm in Mandrague 
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Oil on linen canvas

Après la pêche. la Madrague à 18h 
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de lin

 

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The Fishermen’s Fleet
2024, 70cm x 50cm, oil on canvas 

La flotte des pêcheurs
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de lin

Fishermen’s pride in their boat
For a fisherman, his boat is much more than just a simple work tool. It is his sea companion, his refuge from storms, and the guardian of his hopes.
Every wave crossed, each net hauled tells a story of perseverance and passion.

Whether it is painted white and blue, marked by sea spray and salt, his boat is the reflection of his sailor’s soul. He has maintained it with his own hands, seen it brave the elements, and knows that without his boat , the sea would be nothing more than a distant horizon. It is a silent but immense pride – that of taming the unknown and returning, day after day, with his heart filled with the call of the open sea.

Fierté des pêcheurs pour leur bateau
Pour un pêcheur, son bateau est bien plus qu’un simple outil de travail. C'est son compagnon de mer, son refuge contre les tempêtes, et le gardien de ses espoirs. Chaque vague franchie, chaque filet remonté raconte une histoire de persévérance et de passion.

Qu’il soit peint en blanc et bleu, marqué par les embruns et le sel, son bateau est le reflet de son âme de marin. Il l’a entretenu de ses mains, l’a vu braver les éléments, et sait que sans lui, la mer ne serait qu’un horizon lointain. C’est une fierté silencieuse, mais immense – celle de dompter l’inconnu et de rentrer, jour après jour, le cœur rempli de l’appel du large.


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The most beautiful spot to watch the sunset is the harbour of the Port of Madrague . The golden reflections of the last sun rays dance across the turquoise waters.
Le plus bel endroit pour admirer le coucher de soleil est le port de la Madrague. Les reflets dorés des derniers rayons du soleil font leur dernier danse sur les eaux turquoise.

Golden light 
2024, 60cm x 60cm, oil on recycled canvas

Lumière dorée
2024, 60cm x 60cm, huile sur  la toile recyclé 

 

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Old St. Louis is getting a make over at the port of the Goudes 
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Oil in linen canvas

Le vieux Saint-Louis se refait une beauté au port des Goudes
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de lin

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Two wolves of Marseille on the plate
 2025, 40cm x 50cm, oil on aluminium plate
 
Deux loups de Marseille dans l'assiette
2025, 40cm x 50cm, huile sur plaque d'aluminium

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White boat 
oil on board 25cmx 30cm
La barque blanche 
huile sur panneau 25cmx30cm


My favorite fisherman boat in Madrague 
Ma barque de pêche préférée à la Madrague




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My friends from Vieux port of Marseille
2024, 70cm x 50cm, oil on linen canvas 

Mes amis du Vieux port de Marseille
2024, 70cm x 50cm, Huile sur toile de lin



The fish vendors at Marseille’s Vieux-Port are a local tradition. Every morning at dawn, fishermen dock up their boats, their nets full of fresh catch straight from the Mediterranean. With their sing-song accents and that unmistakable Marseillais charm, they bring the market to life—chatting, joking, and haggling with locals and chefs on the hunt for the best fish of the day. Right at the end of the famous Canebière, this fish market isn’t just about buying seafood—it’s a vibrant meeting place, it's where the sea gether generations of know-how.

Les vendeurs de poisson au Vieux-Port de Marseille sont une véritable institution. Chaque matin, dès l’aube, les pêcheurs accostent avec leurs barques chargées de poissons frais, directement pêchés dans la Méditerranée. Avec leurs accents chantants et leur gouaille typiquement marseillaise, ces vendeurs animent le marché, échangeant avec les habitants et les restaurateurs venus chercher la meilleure prise du jour. Ce marché aux poissons, au pied de la célèbre Canebière, est un spectacle vivant où se mêlent traditions, savoir-faire et amour de la mer.

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Around Madrague de Montredon


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Abandoned Castle by the Sea
2025, 40cm x 50cm, oil on canvas 

Le château abandonné au bord de la mer
2025, 40cm x 50cm, huile sur toile




The roofs of the madrague courtyard

2025, 27cm x 50cm, oil on board 
Les toits de la cours de la Madrague
2025, 27cm x 50cm, huile sur panneau

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Bathed in the sun glow of early March.
watercolours, white gouache on paper, 50cm x 65cm

The scene unfolded in the old chapel converted into the art studio. I tried capturing the essence of this particular lighting at 5:15 pm during 3 days. Because of  the fleeting ten-minute window of illumination each day, the sharp shadows added an intriguing challenge of  capturing the essence of the moment through the kaleidoscope of the myriad of green and blue shades.

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All works © Maria Chumak 2025